34. Bread Loaf in Juneau.

Greetings from Juneau! Welcome to my site!I started this web log last August when I arrived at Tuntutuliak, Alaska- a tiny Eskimo village in southwest Alaska. My decision to move to Tuntutuliak happened rather abruptly- over the summer, it struck me that four years as an inner-city middle school teacher at a public middle school in Philadelphia was enough... more than enough even. So I looked to Alaska for something different. This website is a collection of my experiences and observations, as a city dweller, of this radically different environment.

Presently, I'm in Juneau attending Bread Loaf School of English through a state grant fellowship- a program designed to improve writing instruction for Native Alaskan youth. After school let out around May 20th, I visited Philadelphia for a few weeks, then headed straight to Juneau for this program. As soon as this is over, I go back to Tuntutuliak for another year of fascinating desolation and meaningful instruction. I'm looking forward to it. Grad school has been a great experience so far- being an adult in a college environment is something to behold. People really seem to leave their hang-ups at the door.I'll come back to this at the end of August. Have a good summer!

33. More From Culture Week.

Jigging (Ice Fishing)...

Sling-shot workshop...

Basket weaving...

The kids were given saws and exacto-knives to make their sling-shots from scratch. I was given indigestion...

32. Culture Week: Rabbit Drive.

Regular afternoon classes this week were canceled to make room for the learning of a slew of skills vital to Yup'k culture. The weeks activities covered a broad spectrum of current traditional practices, including a variety of fine native craft-making techniques and various methods of subsistence living, many different activities occurring simultaneously. All Culture Week instruction was delivered by village residents, who this week became temporary members of the school staff. Certified staff were to serve only as aids to the village resident teachers. I'll post some of the highlights over the next few days.

On Monday and Tuesday afternoons, I headed into the bush for rabbit drives with Robert Enoch and Henry Lupie. A rabbit drive is basically a group of people in line formation trudging through thick brush to corral any and all dwelling rabbits into a previously set net that extends about thirty feet on the far side of the brush.

Above is Mr. Enoch explaining to the kids in Yup'k how it's done.

Here we are heading out to the bush to try to catch some rabbits.

Too bad the rabbits got away. The second day, we took a much longer route and spotted at least one, but we found fox tracks and think we were out foxed. The net had been gnawed through and there was a tuft of fur nearby. Break up is a poor time to go on rabbit drives. Had we gone a week earlier, the snow would have been more firm and thus more easily navigable. Maybe next year.

31. Beluga Swims To Philadelphia.

"A beluga whale, whose normal range is defined by the Arctic Circle, has somehow found its way into the Delaware River, making it as far north as Trenton."
            April 13, 2005 Philadelphia Inquirer

30. Hunting For Subsistence.

It's hard to overstate how much hunting is a part of life out here. Even though there are places to buy things, subsistence foods comprise half the village diet. Spring is approaching, the sun is setting later and later (9:00 tonight), and it is nearly seal hunting season. People have been talking about seal hunting all year. I got to taste seal a couple of times. It has a strong, sort of iron-rich anise flavor. It's legal for me to eat anything offered, but laws carefully define exactly what seal hunting is and who is allowed to partake. For example, I am allowed to go out on seal hunts, but could

be arrested if I steer the boat. Native hunters frequently take other protected marine mammals,

such as Walrus and Beluga Whale. Pictured at left is Beluga ready to eat. It's very tough and without much taste. On land, moose, caribou, ptarmigan and duck are common game. A few years ago, officers came to the village to issue citations for moose caught out of season, but were denied entry by up to 100 residents who met them where they landed:

            "50 to 100 residents of Tuntutuliak...barred an Alaska Fish and Wildlife Protection officer and two U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service employees from entering their village. The officers...were told they weren't welcome if they planned to enforce state and federal subsistence hunting regulations..."
            August 22, 2002 Kenai Peninsula Online

A few days later, the issue was defused when an interpreter cleared up some misunderstandings, but it shows how important hunting is. Some kids get to hunt a lot, while others never get the opportunity. We've discussed how valuable of a school activity it would be for the kids who never get to go, but it is impossible obviously because firearms are illegal in schools. For many of these kids, skill with a firearm will be as fundamental to survival as earning a living.

29. Tournament Champions.

The Middle School Basketball season came to a close Saturday as the Tuntutuliak Blue Jays earned the title of Midcoast Division Champions.
Four other schools invaded our classrooms, halls and cafeteria Friday for the last games of the season. The first planeload arrived Friday before school let out and the last plane came in just before dark- around eight o'clock. They played phenomenally; it really was fun to watch.
The last game on Friday between Tunt and Kong went into overtime and ended after eleven o'clock with a victory by our own. Above is the traffic of four-wheelers and snow machines leaving the game Friday night. Later that night, one of the people from the village who works at the school gave me a call and invited me over for a steam.